From Brisbane to Cairns on the Sunlander Train

Thursday, Feb. 24, 2011 - Brisbane, board the Sunlander
Happy 71^st birthday to me. How did I get this old? I still feel like I’m 25 and looking forward to conquering the world. I didn’t conquer the world, but I hope I left it a little better than I found it. No pity party, though, I am quite happy with my life, especially my life with Karen, who had a lot to do with shaping who I am. OK, enough of that!

We took the rental car back to the downtown agency, then walked through the botanical gardens (have you noticed that all cities here have botanical gardens?) and on to a ferry station to return by boat (City Cat) to the hotel. When we got to the station, we found it had been closed due to damage from the flooding and now it was very difficult to find our way back to a city street to catch a cab. After a couple false starts and some advice, we did get back to a street and hailed a cab.

Botanic Gardens in Brisbane

Shortly after noon, we made our way to the train station and boarded sleeping car A for our 30 hour trip on the Sunlander train to Cairns. We have our own stateroom with fold down double deck beds, a fold down sink, and other clever space saving items like a 3 inch deep closet. Naturally I get the top bunk, but it does have straps, so I won’t fall off, hopefully. We were served high tea at 2:00 and a three course dinner at 7. Drinks and a pianist/singer in the club car adds to the ambiance. So this is how the other half lives!
We met a nice couple from Anchorage who must be part of the other half, because they have been in Australia since Christmas to escape the Alaskan winter. They have traveled virtually everywhere in Australia. Too bad I didn‘t inherit old money or didn’t make a fortune in business. I could have been a great rich person!

Gourmet Food in the Dining Car

It’s 10:00 in the evening as I write this in the club car. The entertainer is playing and singing just for me, everyone else has gone to bed! I am truly a PC (privileged character). Reality will set in soon enough!

Friday, Feb. 25, 2011 - Aboard the Sunlander

It wasn’t that easy to sleep on the train - going around curves and rough tracks at times made it difficult to go to sleep and remain asleep, but it wasn’t too bad. Not much to report on this day - interesting scenery, great food, met some nice people, but for the most part it was just a day traveling on a luxury train. However as we approached Cairns, we could see the effect of cyclone Yasi which had come through a week or two before, wiping out whole forests. The staff on the train had not seen this and were aghast at the beautiful scenery that had been erased. It turns out we were on the first Northbound train to get through since Yasi.

This was a beautiful rainforest two weeks ago, before Yasi.

It also rained the whole day. Didn’t really care that much, because we were on a train. Our last meal on the train was really something.  The picture says it all.

Sea food lovers, eat your heart out!

Arrived Cairns at 7 PM, checked into the Hilton and went to sleep in a bed that didn’t move. It was still raining outside.

Wednesday, Feb. 23, 2011 - Brisbane

As we got on the plane yesterday to fly to Brisbane, we were watching the news on the little screen on the back of the airline seats and saw to our horror the devastation of the earthquake in Christchurch. We had been there just nine days before, of course, and had spent considerable time in the cathedral, which had such extensive damage and loss of life. We were at once saddened, yet relieved that it did not happen when we were there. The people of Christchurch are among the nicest we have met on our journey and they do not deserve this fate.

One of the challenging things about a 35 day vacation is that you of course cannot pack for 35 days! So I figured we should pack for 10 days and count on doing three laundries during the trip. In New Zealand that was no problem, as we stayed in several motels and B&B’s where laundry facilities were provided. Once we got to Sydney, we discovered no laundromats anywhere in the central city. Of course we could send it out to the hotel, but there is something in my makeup (call it cheap) that will not permit me to spend $6.00 to launder a pair of socks! By the time we arrived in Brisbane, it was a question of find a laundry, or go a second time around on the underwear. Fortunately the hotel concierge was nice enough to refer us to a Chinese laundry, and we are fresh and clean again without being cleaned out!

The biggest attraction for us in Brisbane was the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary, the only place in Australia where you can cuddle a koala and have your picture taken doing it. They have special dispensation from the government for this, because they have nearly 200 koalas, so any one koala is only on duty for twenty minutes a day. And all the eucalyptus leaves they can eat! Not too bad a life. So of course that is where we headed and we did cuddle a koala. No humans were harmed in this process, although the koala didn’t take to me as well as she did Karen. Anyway, here we are.



Awwwwwww!

 We were also able to cavort with kangaroos, stroll with emus, and observe much more of the wildlife of Australia, which as you know is different from anywhere else in the world. It was a great time!

Karen didn't shoot these kangaroos, they just are taking a midday nap!

We then drove north to the Sunshine Coast, but there was, alas, no sunshine. There were 50 knot easterlies, so it was decidedly unfit for strolling on the wonderful beaches there.

We did, however, drive up into the Glass House Mountains, different from any I have seen. They are basically ancient volcanoes that have eroded away, leaving the lava plug exposed. They were named by Captain James Cook, who thought they resembled glass factories near his home in England.



Glass House Mountain with lava "plug"

 In retrospect, if I had it to do over again, I would give Brisbane 5 days or no days. I should say southern Queensland, not Brisbane, as there is so much unique land and seashore to experience, that our one day here was like eating one potato chip. We left way too many chips in the bag.
On to Cairns tomorrow, riding on the Sunlander train. We leave at noon Thursday (my 71^st birthday!) and arrive on Friday evening, covering 1,000 miles!

Feb. 21 & 22 - Sydney to Brisbane

Monday, Feb. 21 - Sydney


Aaarrrgh!  Woke up this morning, looked out our window and saw that we had been invaded by a pirate ship!  I found out later, on a tour of the ship, that it is actually a replica of the first Dutch ship to discover Australia, akin to Columbus’s Santa Maria.  It is fascinating how sailors were able to survive on such vessels for months and years on end!  It is the Duyfken (Little Dove) which landed in the Cairns area in 1606, the earliest known European landing in Australia.  The replica is so authentic (it even smells old!), you would swear it was 400 years old, but it was built in 1997.  What an unexpected treat!

Karen in the hold

Under sail!

As I saw the ship from our balcony.  Also notice the "Edible Cafe" in the background.

Our breakfast today (and tomorrow) was taken at the “Edible Café,” a very unusual restaurant which we could see from our balcony.  Strawberries and herbs are grown on the outside walls and roof of the restaurant, which is constructed from (apparently) discarded materials including truck trailer containers.  The doors to the toilets (I’ve adjusted to the local terminology) are folding tables, and drinks are served in jars.  The interior walls are painted with dissertations on healthful eating and the waiters and waitresses are delightfully flaky!

Inside the Edible Cafe

We went to the well-known Manly Beach today, taking the even better known Manly Ferry, which serves both tourists and commuters.  So you have people in business suits with attache cases seated next to people (like us) with shorts, t-shirts, flip-flops, and funny hats, smelling of skin block.  The Corso, a shopping promenade built in 1855, looks like it hasn’t had a coat of paint since then, but the beach itself is a full mile long and very wide, very popular.  We took another cliff walk and had lunch at the Sand Bar, which fortunately had no sand in the fish & chips!

A Sea Monster Lizard on our walk.  It is an endangered species.

Back in Sydney we walked through the Botanical Gardens to sit in Mrs. Macquaries chair, hewn from a large rock in the area, so that the governor’s wife (in the early 1800’s) would have a place to sit and view the growing skyline of Sydney.  Now every tourist wants to have their picture taken there, so……

Thanks, Mrs. Macquarie!

Dinner at Café Sydney in the Customs House overlooking Circular Quay.  Over the past two days we must have walked twenty miles, but with all the good food, somehow we don’t look any slimmer!

Tuesday, Feb. 22 - Sydney to Brisbane

Aaarrgh!  Woke up this morning and another ship had docked.  But this time it was the Queen Elizabeth!  It is huge!  Like a floating apartment building!  This was a big day in Sydney, because the Queen Mary also arrived this morning, but is docked by the Naval station, because it is too big for the normal cruise ship docks.  People were up at 5:00 this morning to see the two Queens come in together.  I was not up at that time….

The QE II in all her glory!

After another wholesome (darn!) breakfast at the Edible Cafe, we spent a couple hours in the Sydney museum.  We learned a lot about the not-too-pleasant history between the white man and the aborigines.  They suffered like both the red man and the black man in the U.S., since they were the original residents (like the Indians), but were also black-skinned.  More about aborigines in a future post.

Today is a travel day to Brisbane via Virgin Blue, the Southwest Airlines (aka cattle car) of Australia.  But it’s cheap!  Next post from Brisbane.

Sunday, Feb. 20 - Sydney and the Harbour Bridge

This morning we found an Irish pub on George Street with much cheaper breakfast!  Everything in Sydney is at New York City prices, at the very least.

Breakfast in the garden of an Irish pub.

Our Frommer’s guide said don’t miss the Bronte to Bondi cliff walk, so we didn’t.  Located in suburbs southeast of the city, these are two of the most famous beaches, along with Manly beach, which we will visit tomorrow.  Between them is a paved cliffside walk of about two miles with striking seaside vistas.  There was also a lot eye candy for dirty old men, but I, of course, modestly averted my eyes when confronted by pulchritude on our walk.  So the beginning of our walk was Bronte Beach and the end was Bondi Beach, where we had lunch at the Bondi Trattoria.

Bronte Beach, our starting point

The cliffs along the way

 Returning by taxi to our room, we decided we needed a bit of a rest before our next strenuous exercise, the climbing of the Harbour Bridge.  Although incredibly expensive, especially for the sunset climb, we decided we had to do it, a once in a lifetime opportunity.  We were surprised by the elaborate preparations once we got there.  We felt like we were going on a space mission - special suits, a harness connecting us to a cable for the full length of the walk, earphones and radio receptor so the guide could talk to us, a pack containing a parka in case of rain, all connected in some way to the suit.  We had to submit to a breathalyzer test and there was a practice set of ladders so we could get used to climbing while connected to the cable.  This was all done with patience and good humor by the guides.  One disappointment is that we could not take cameras with us, partly because they wouldn’t want us snapping pictures instead of concentrating on what we were doing, and partly because they took the pictures, which they could then sell to us, of course!

Here we go!

The climb was only moderately strenuous.  I confess to being out of breath a couple times, but there were rest stops along the way to recover, and to take photographs.  As we approached the top, the view was breathtaking (or was I just out of breath?).  We lucked out on the weather - it was clear and we could see all of Sydney and as far away as the Blue Mountains, about 40 miles away.  And as you can see from the photo, it was a gorgeous sunset.  Our guide said it was one of the most colorful she had ever seen.  When I asked Karen a couple days later what was the best part of Sydney, she replied without hesitation, “The Bridge Climb.”  So then we descended, spent lots of money for photos and t-shirts, and had a nice light dinner on Argyle Street.

At the top!

Hello, Australia!

Hello, Oz!  Friday/Saturday Feb. 18/19

We have now set foot on our sixth and last continent!  I shall now be satisfied to dream dreams, as the Bible says old men are supposed to do.  You young men will have to see all the visions now.  As we were descending for our landing, I could see the cityscape below between breaks in the clouds, but didn’t expect to recognize anything, when BAM!!  there was the Sydney Opera House from about 1,000 feet!  An omen of good things to come, I thought.

We are staying at the Park Hyatt Sydney, one of the premier Sydney hotels.  We were shown to our room, and when we opened the drapes (with the remote control!) and stepped out onto our little balcony, BAM!!  there was the Sydney Opera House all lit up just for us, across the waters of Campbell’s Cove!!  We also have a view of the cruise ship dock and several buildings in The Rocks, the original settlement of the convicts arriving in 1788.

The Sydney Opera House, viewed from our hotel room balcony!

 

In case you are wondering how we can afford such luxurious accommodations, the answer is, we can’t!  I am cashing in all the American Express points earned over 14 years of traveling for Telxon.  So for one brief moment in time, we get to see how the rich and famous live.  Then it will be back to clipping coupons for the best deals at Giant Eagle.  But I digress.

We wondered around the area that night, and were amazed that there were thousands of people out on the streets.  There were markets, street performers, cafes and pubs everywhere.  This has to be the most happenin’ city in the world.  But fatigue was setting in, so we retired to our room, closed the drapes with our remote (heh, heh) and got a good nights sleep.

Thousands of people enjoying the streets of Sydney.  This was a Friday night, but it happens every night!

 The first thing we did on Saturday, following an outrageously costly breakfast in the hotel, was head out on a Captain Cook Harbor Cruise.  The Sydney Harbor is amazing, probably the largest in the world.  We explored every bay and cove on the south as we worked our way out to the Tasman Sea, then turned back and explored the northern area until we were back to the Harbor Bridge, then back to port at the Circular Quay (pronounced “”key”).  Along the way we saw 80 million dollar homes, nude beaches (I am so sad I forgot to bring my binoculars), yachts by the thousands, and many other sights, all explained with humor and excellent history lessons by a very articulate hostess.  In the best English tradition, we were served high tea on the high seas.

On the Captain Cook Harbour Cruise, Opera House in the background.

Ditto.  I have to get in the picture once in a while.

 

The afternoon was spent mostly on a double decker bus to get an overview of this very impressive city.   

From the top deck of the bus, approaching the Harbour Bridge.

 Then it was back to the room to dress for …. the opera!  I had booked this weeks ago, because it is almost impossible to get tickets the day of performance.  So we put on our finest and arrived at the Sydney Opera House to see Bizet’s Carmen. 

Karen inside the Opera House, enjoying a pre-performance drink.  Note the Carmen program propped up on the table.

 It was a magnificent performance, made even more special for me because I had conducted the Carmen Suite No. 1 on two occasions with the TrueNorth Symphony.  From our dress circle seats, we could see the orchestra in the pit.  They were magnificent, as was the conductor, Guillaume Tourniaire.  The singers were also outstanding, especially Carmen and Michaela.  The sets were kind of minimalist, but interesting, all with a subtle golden cast.  On several occasions I remember thinking, “I am watching grand opera in the Sydney Opera House!  How much better can it get from this?”  No pictures were allowed in the theatre, of course, but did get one of a pre-concert lecture. 

A view of the Harbour Bridge from inside the Opera House.

A lecture about Carmen and Bizet, who never knew how successful his masterpiece would become.

 

Once again as we walked back to our hotel we were amazed at the thousands of people on the streets and in harbourside restaurants.  Tomorrow we climb the Bridge!

Wrapping Up New Zealand

We are now in Sydney and having a great time here, but first let me wrap up New Zealand.

Wednesday, Feb. 16  Franz Josef Glacier to Nelson (yawn)

Today could be summed up in a manner similar to Caesar’s Gallic Wars:  We came, we saw, we went to bed (or something like that.)  We are making our way back to Auckland driving up the west coast of both islands.  We did see more gorgeous scenery, but not the spectacular type we have come to expect.

We ate lunch in Greymouth (not a disease - the town sits at the mouth of the Grey River, which isn’t grey.  Grey does describe the town, however, a very industrial town, the only one we have really seen in our journey thus far.  We had just about decided we would have to eat at McDonalds, when we finally spotted an interesting tavern, Speight’s Gold Medal Ale Tavern.  Speight’s Ale is the Budweiser of New Zealand, only it tastes much better.  As usual in this country (which we dearly love, don’t get me wrong!) I had to virtually stand up and wave my arms to get service.  But the seafood chowder was delicious!

Speight's Gold Medal Ale Pub

 Otherwise it wss five hours of driving through seaside, mountains, riverside, and farm country.  Driving on these two lane roads (with one lane bridges) reminds me of what a pilot friend of mine said about flying:  “Hours of boredom punctuated by moments of sheer terror.”  Part of the terror this day was getting to our heritage house stay on the top of the mountain overlooking Nelson and Tasman Bay.  Up a twisting single lane road about two inches wider than our tires.  And of course we met someone coming down!  So we backed up until we could pull into someone’s driveway so the other party could pass.  But the view from this aerie was wonderful!

View of Nelson from our bedroom window

 Dinner at Ford’s Restaurant downtown featuring a delightful grouper and a Sauvignon Blanc from Nelson, which is in the Marlborough region famous for this varietal.  Of course, to get to dinner, we had to drive down the road and back up again.  I made sure we got back before dark!

Thursday and Friday, Feb. 17-18 - Nelson to Plymouth, then to Auckland for flight

From Nelson we were up early to get to the ferry back to the North Island, then up to New Plymouth as a convenient stopping-off point on the way back to Auckland.  Once again, the scenery on the drive was quite striking, or at least Karen told me it was, because I was doing the white knuckle thing steering around the mountain curves and taking our lives in our hands passing double trailer trucks.  Glad to be done with the driving now, which was about 2500 miles (my rough calculation of the 4000 + kilometers on the odometer.  Best of all, I delivered the car back to Avis with both car and occupants intact!

One interesting feature of New Plymouth is a walking bridge over a river near the seashore which is a real work of art.  It looks like the skeleton of a whale and if you stand at the south end and look back north, it frames Mt. Taranaki (Mt. Egmont), a very impressive dormant volcano which is an almost perfectly symmetrical cone. I’ve included a picture, but the mountain is barely visible because it was partially obscured by clouds.

Walking bridge in New Plymouth with Mt. Taranaki in the background.

 New Zealand - Some observations and reflections

New Zealand is a wonderful place to visit and I think would be a great place to live.  We have visited many wonderful places, but we would not choose to live there.  (I always say that Cleveland is a great place to live, but I wouldn’t want to visit there!)

The People:  We were there for two weeks and with one minor exception, everyone we met was friendly and genuinely interested in us.  I’ve joked about the restaurant service being slow, but the servers were always friendly and smiling.  Everyplace we stayed the hostess took great pains to help us make the most of our time there.  I mention the lone exception, because it was fairly humorous.  At a gas station, I asked where the “restroom” was.  The imperious reply was, “We don’t have any rooms where you can rest.  However, we do have a toilet you can use.”  At first I thought he was joking with me - he wasn’t!  But never mind him - the other 4 million people were great!

A few of our newly found Kiwi friends at Waitangi

 The Scenery:  All in all, some of the best scenery in the world.  I described in the Milford Sound post the magnificence of the Southern Alps, particularly in the Sound itself.  The South Island is one spectacular view after another.  The North Island is less spectacular, for the most part, but I compare it with Tuscany in Italy.  Around every bend there is another vista where I would say, “Look at that!  Isn’t that beautiful!”  Like Tuscany, that was only when I could take my eyes off the road.  I wanted to visit Hobbiton, the site where the Shire was constructed for “Lord of the Rings” and will soon be used again for “The Hobbit.”  But there were so many places with greener than green hills that could have been the Shire.

A typical rural vista on the North Island

 The Roads:  Despite my complaints in previous posts, what a refreshing change to have to drive through every little town on the way and see the real country rather than zipping by everything on a superhighway.  It took me back to the ‘50’s when I would go on road trips with my parents on two lane roads through every city, town, and burg along the way to Florida or out west.  New Zealanders are excellent drivers and courtesy abounds.  When a car or truck is holding up a line of traffic and there are no passing lanes in sight, it is not uncommon for them to pull over to the left, slow down, and indicate by turn signal that those following should go ahead and pass.  When have you ever seen that in the U.S.?  They really ought to work on converting the one lane bridges to two lanes, however!

Oh, I hope no one is coming from the other end!

 So in summary, New Zealand was fabulous!  If I had unlimited funds, I would buy a condo somewhere on the South Island (probably Queenstown area) and spend January to March watching the sun come up over the mountains.  I will do this just after I buy a villa in Tuscany, where we would spend our summers.  Remind me to buy a Lotto ticket when we get home.

Stay Tuned - On to Sydney!

The last three days of New Zealand involved a lot of driving, a lot of beautiful scenery, and a lot of food, of course, but nothing spectacular.  We are now in the Auckland airport awaiting our flight to Sydney.  My next post will be from the land of Oz, where I'll offer some wrap-up comments about New Zealand.  Stay tuned!

Jim