Day 4 – Aarhus, Denmark – September 1, 2012

September already? Where does the summer go every year? Why can't we slow down time for three months; Oh, well, what does time matter to me anyway? I'm just adrift in the Baltic Sea where time has no meaning. And we've had (for Scandinavia) excellent weather. The sun has shown for at least part of the day each day we've been here and the temperature has peaked at 20 or 21 degrees every day. (That's 68 or 70 degrees F for those of you still stuck in the English system of measurement.) Our guide in Oslo told us they had five sunny days all summer and that day was one of them! We got a glimpse of what is to come today in Aarhus, as it was in the low 60's to start the day, but the sun came out at noon and it warmed up to 70. (Yes, it's much easier for me to think in Fahrenheit, too, but I have come up with a simple approximation formula: 20 C = 68 F, add 18 to get: 30 C =86 F, and again 40 C = 104. In between those benchmarks, add or subtract 2 degrees F for each degree C. Close enough! Example, someone says 23 degrees C, add 6 to 68, giving 74 F, close enough to the precise 73.4. Close enough for government work, anyway.)

So what did we do in Aarhus, Denmark's second largest city, which you've never heard of? It is in the Jutland part of Denmark, so named, I presume, because it's a part of Denmark that juts out north into the Baltic Sea. It is less of a tourist destination than Copenhagen,, so we experienced a little more authentic Danish life. We did not do a tour, figuring we could make our way around on our own. We did fine, but I have to admit I worry a little about Karen these days, as she does not have the stamina she did even a few years ago, so for the rest of the trip we will stick to the excursions, even though I hate tourist busses!

We began with the Aarhus Domkirke or Cathedral, 800 years old and the largest church in Denmark, 330 feet long and 330 feet high! It was originally a Catholic cathedral with exquisite frescos on the walls. But 16 years after it was completed, Lutheranism became the state religion, and everything including the frescoes were whitewashed over. In the 20^th century the whitewash was peeled off, revealing perfectly preserved frescoes underneath! The pulpit is in the middle of the church, common in Lutheran churches, so the front pews face the middle, creating an interesting problem for weddings.

Example of fresco 

Leaving the beautiful church, we found ourselves in the square where a music festival was going on. It being Saturday, the square was packed with people, most of them locals. We found what we thought was a nice Danish sandwich shop, only to discover it is probably a California chain, since the name turned out to be Sunset Boulevard. Duh! Nevertheless, good food at reasonable price (my definition of reasonable expands daily)

The most beautiful woman on the most beautiful street!

We then walked up the “most beautiful street in Aarhus” with tiny pastel cottages and hollyhocks or climbing roses on every house. That took us to ARoS, the art museum which was a memorable experience. The most famous work there is a squatting sculpture of a boy (titled... Boy, of course) by Australian artist Ron Mueck, 15 feet high, yet amazingly realistic, with eyes that seem alive and skin accurate down the the wrinkles on his elbows! 

Oh! Boy!

 We also saw an interesting exhibit of light and video art, pretty avant garde, but fascinating. Virtually all the art is modern. We then went up to the 10^th floor which is a rainbow ring walkway. As you walk around the ring you go from red tint to orange to yellow, etc. Viewed from the outside, the people in the ring are silhouettes walking around the ring.

Violet-Red (not shown: orange-yellow-green-blue-indigo)

We then walked up to Den Gamli By, an open air museum so popular in Scandinavia. However, it was getting late and Karen was getting very tired so we called a taxi and went back to the ship to rest.

Tomorrow – Berlin, Germany